It’s not common nature to the everyday man on how to style a suit perfectly for a special occasion. I know that dreaded fear that runs through people when they get invited to a wedding or to a black tie event and have no idea where to start. I have teamed up the Italian dream team at Canali to ensure all you suit wearing males out there look as sharp as the Italians during those special days or events.
When I dress a suit, I firstly think of the occasion. I was recently invited to my best friends wedding back in December and it was super important that I dressed well, especially as I was well known amongst her family and friends. Not only that, you owe to to the bride to not look like the ‘shabby’ friend… especially as I was the only person other than her father to give a speech during the ceremony. Eeeek, pressure was on!
Picking Your Suit
Sizing is absolutely key as without knowing what size blazer and suit trouser fits you best, there is a high chance it will not do your figure any justice. Blazers sizes are based on chest size, starting at 32 inches right through to 46 inches. I typically wear a 40 inch blazer, but it’s also because I am 5ft 11″ with broad shoulders. If you don’t know your chest size, simply ask someone to measure the largest part of your chest whilst breathing normally and with your arms touching your sides.
The next step is choosing the right trouser size. I normally find that I wear the same size suit trousers as I do my jeans. However, others may find that they need to go a size up. It’s best to double check by measuring your waist size, measure 6cm under your belly button and that should provide you with your trouser waist measurement for suits.
What is the occasion? I tend to normally reach out for dark navy blue suits for weddings and black suits for a black tie event. As you can see from my best friends wedding I went for a dark blue suit with dark navy pipping along the sides.
If I were to choose something from the Canali clothing collection, it would be this beautiful black wool tuxedo with silk peak lapels. The simple black colour works perfectly with an elegant touch with the silk lapels.
You thought it was as easy as just getting the measurement on point and you were well on your way? Only if it were that easy, but I promise it will be worth it. We all have different body shapes and structures, this is where personal preference comes in to play too. The four traditional fittings are regular, tailored, slim and some places do super slim too. However, traditionally well made suit company’s do not like to play with the suit fittings too much as they feel the it ruins the character of the suit. I can totally relate, as an overly skinny trouser doesn’t often compliment the overall suit very well. I mean, I normally wear skinny jeans but I definitely wouldn’t wear overly tight suit trousers as it just doesn’t work. Canali also use high quality material that allows it to fit to your body shape, making it look fitted from morning to night. Clever right? You definitely get what you pay for.
Canali’s two suit styles are regular and modern, which fit in the following way.
Regular – This is their least fitted suit style with a longer jacket and slightly wider at the hips and torso area. The leg width is 8.3″ making it easier to move around if you’re on your feet a lot.
Modern – The jacket is slightly shorter and slimmer at the hips and torso compared to the regular fit. The leg width is around 7.7″ making it a little more tailored to the modern man.
Once those three steps are sorted, you’re have found yourself your perfect fitting suit… now to style it!
Styling Your Suit
Choosing the right colour shirt, tie and pocket square are also essential parts. Personally I like to wear brighter, lighter shirts when wearing any type of suit. Going for a shirt that is pure white or has a base of white (i.e. white with coloured stripes or checks) is always safe and classic way to dress a suit.
If you decide to go for something with a bit of colour, whether it be coloured stripes over a base white shirt or a completely different coloured shirt, it is always best to follow the same colour theme throughout. For example, if I were to wear a pink shirt with a dark blue suit, I would aim to have some pink in my tie and pocket square too. I often like to find ties and pocket squares that match the suit and the tie together.
I decided to change things up a little as I wanted a bold look, so I didn’t worry about a pocket square and went for a large dark navy blue bow time that matched my suit colour. Whilst the rest of my outfit was bold and dark including my black shoes, I went for a classic crisp white shirt underneath that held it all together. I have modelled what I would class as the perfect wedding outfit.
I hope this 101 guide helps with your suit fitting and styling needs, making it a piece of cake.
Until next time…